Mugs Stump
American rock climber
Terry "Mugs" Stump (August 28, 1949 – May 21, 1992) was a noted American rock climber and mountaineer, active in establishing difficult first ascents in the Alaska Range and the Canadian Rockies. He died from falling into a crevasse while descending the South Buttress of Denali on May 21, 1992, while guiding clients Bob Hoffman and Nelson Max.
He is most noted for the first ascent of the Emperor Face on Mount Robson with Jamie Logan, and for three routes in the Alaska Range, the East Face of The Moose's Tooth, the Moonflower Buttress on Mount Hunter, and a one-day solo of Denali's Cassin Ridge.
Climber Conrad Anker credits Stump as an influential climbing mentor in the film Meru.
Stump, along with his geologist brother, contributed to field safety for the United States Antarctic Program scientists and other working on the continent for the National Science Foundation.
The Mugs Stump Alpine Climbing Award for aspiring alpine climbers is named in his honor.
Early life
Mugs was born in Mifflintown, Pennsylvania, where he grew up fishing, hunting, and camping with his father Warren and three brothers.
First ascents and notable ascents
1978 Stump/Logan, Emperor Face, Mount Robson (VI 5.9 A2 2500m) with Jamie Logan.
1981 Dance of the Woo Li Masters, East Face of The Moose's Tooth, Ruth Gorge, Alaska, US (VI 5.9 WI4+ A4, 1520m) with Jim Bridwell
1981 Moonflower Buttress, North Buttress of Mount Hunter, Alaska Range (Alaska Grade 6: 5.8 A3 AI6, 6100') with Paul Aubrey(NZ). FA to ridge crest.
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