Ivory Jean Paul Gaultier dress of Marion Cotillard
dress worn by Marion Cotillard at the 80th Academy Awards

French actress Marion Cotillard wore a custom Jean Paul Gaultier ivory crepe (or white-and-silver) mermaid dress to the 80th Academy Awards on 24 February 2008, at which she won the Academy Award for Best Actress for her performance as French singer Édith Piaf in La Vie en Rose (2007). Several publications such as Vogue, Variety, Forbes, ABC News, CNN, Marie Claire, Glamour, Entertainment Tonight, The Daily Telegraph, and The Hollywood Reporter have cited the dress as one of the greatest Oscar gowns of all time. The dress increased in value after the 2008 Academy Awards and was estimated to be worth $180,000 as of 2023.
Background
A golden bronze version of the dress — a mermaid-style gown with gilded scales overlapping at the bust and hip, a 3D rose-shaped embellishment at the bust and a crisscross back — was presented on the catwalk as look number 38 from Jean Paul Gaultier's Spring/Summer 2008 Couture Show at the Paris Fashion Week on 23 January 2008. The dress was named "The Mermaid Queen".
After seeing the dress at the Paris Fashion Week in January 2008, French actress Marion Cotillard met with Gaultier at his atelier in Paris on 8 February 2008 for fittings, during which she tried on the golden version of the dress, but she wanted to wear something different to the Academy Awards for which she was nominated for Best Actress for La Vie en Rose (2007). The French documentary Mon Clown, broadcast by Canal+ in France on 14 March 2008, features footage of Cotillard's visit to the atelier and the seamstresses working on her dress. Before the Academy Awards, Cotillard wore a short pale-pink dress with gilded scales from the same Gaultier collection at the César Awards on 22 February 2008, at which she won the César Award for Best Actress for La Vie en Rose (2007).
On 24 February 2008, Cotillard wore a custom made ivory crepe/white and silver version of the dress to the 80th Academy Awards, at which she won the Academy Award for Best Actress for her performance as French singer Édith Piaf in La Vie en Rose (2007). Cotillard's version of the dress had gold and silver threading, was created in 180 hours and handsewn by five people.
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