Yếm

A yếm or áo yếm (Vietnamese: [ʔiəm˧˦], chữ Nôm: 裺 or 襖裺) is a traditional Vietnamese undergarment that was once worn by Vietnamese women across all classes. It was most usually worn underneath a blouse or mantle to preserve modesty.

It is a simple garment with many variations from its basic form, which is a simple, usually diamond or square-cut piece of cloth draped over a woman's chest with strings to tie at the neck and back.

History

The yếm might have originated from the Chinese dudou, a variant of similar undergarments used in China since antiquity whose use spread under the Ming and Qing dynasties. During the late 19th until the 20th century, it was mainly worn by women in northern Vietnam. Unlike other Vietnamese clothing that helped to segregate the classes, the unseen yếm were worn as an undergarment by Vietnamese women of all walks of life, from peasant women toiling in the fields to imperial consorts. It is an integral part of the áo tứ thân costume, which it is often worn underneath.

The skirt which is worn with the yếm is called váy đụp.

After unification of Vietnam, the Nguyễn dynasty forced the whole country to adopt the costumes of Đàng Trong Kingdom, in which tunics and long trousers took the place of the yếm and skirt (váy đụp). The White Hmong were also affected, as the trousers replaced their traditional skirts.